Hemline index 裙长指数

　　The shorter the skirt the stronger the economy, at least that's how the theory goes.

　　有个理论认为，女人的裙子越短，表明经济越强劲。

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　　In 1926 US economist George Taylor coined the theory of the hemline index. It was a kind of frock exchange using skirt lengths as a signal of the state of the economy .

　　美国经济学家乔治-泰勒于1926年发明了这个裙长指数。该指数将裙长作为衡量经济好坏的一个信号。

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　　Anyone applying this theory to the New York autumn/winter 2008 shows, would predict that we are hurtling towards a recession. Hemlines at Marc Jacobs, Jonathan Saunders and Phillip Lim were all resolutely below the knee.

　　任何把这个理论应用于2008年纽约秋冬装的发布会上的人都会认同，我们正处在一个经济低迷的时期。马克-雅可布、约翰森-桑德斯和菲利林这些名牌的裙长都毅然决然地超过了膝盖。

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　　Looking back over the decades it is easy to see why the connection has been made: a glimpse of leg gives a sense of independence and confidence; a sweeping skirt is a sign of modesty and austerity.

　　回顾过去的几十年，我们就会轻而易举地发现裙长与经济之间的联系：露腿的装束传达出独立和自信，而拖地的长裙则是谦逊和朴素的表白。

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　　In the Twenties, hemlines rose along with stock prices. Sonnet Stanfil, fashion curator of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, says: "The decade spelled economic freedom. Women threw off the shackles of the heavily-corseted Edwardian period and hemlines became dramatically shorter for the first time."

　　在上世纪二十年代，裙摆随着股价的上涨而升高。伦敦维多利亚与艾伯特博物馆的时装馆馆长索内特·斯坦费说：“这十年显示出经济的自由。女性摆脱了爱德华时代紧身衣的沉重枷锁，裙长首次戏剧性地缩短了。”

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　　In 1929 the Wall Street Crash brought boom time to an abrupt close and hems dropped almost overnight. During the Depression, mass unemployment meant it was not the time to experiment with cutting edge designs so skirts remained reassuringly long and subtly feminine.

　　1929年华尔街股市的下跌令繁荣的经济时期戛然而止，裙摆几乎一夜之间变长了。经济大萧条时期，大规模的失业意味着缩短裙长的设计是不合时宜的，所以裙子理所当然地保持着长长的，女性化的风格。

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